Thursday, September 22, 2011

Workshop Build Day 1

First day of Workshop build was completed this past Saturday.  Of course we didn't make as much progress as I wanted to.  I was able to get the basement entry door reinstalled and buttoned up at least which was my primary objective.  We completed one wall.

I did the walls in the following order.  We put sill foam underneath our Pressure Treated bottom sill.  I put the bottom sill in first which was easier to line up and make square than trying to square a wall and make straight. I used a ramset to set the PT sill in place.

I built the wall on the floor and then raised it up and installed it.  Sounds easy, but we ended up having to move some plumbing lines and cut out some of the wall for plumbing pipes.

Here are the pictures:


Delivery truck arriving with a truck load of dry wall, wood and doors.



After day 1 the door is back in and walls are starting to take shape.









Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Basement Workshop

I am very excited to announce the newest project I am working on.  It is going to be a workshop in my currently unfinished basement. 

My previous house had a small workshop which was nice, but shared the space with the boiler and oil tank.  This house has a much larger unfinished basement area that is going to allow me to have a dedicated workshop that is separate from the rest of the basement.  It has always been a dream of mine to have a nice workshop.  This will make organizing my tools easier as well as keeping the dust out of the rest of the basement (important because we have a forced hot air system now).

I bought a Dust Collection system off of Craigslist and will install it into a closet with my 17-gallon air compressor.  I will run lines to the individual tools for both of these.

It has always been my dream (I know I am weird!) to use spray foam for insulation.  It is the best insulation out there and closed cell is an automatic vapor barrier (1.5" or thicker).  With an R-Value of 7 per inch, it outperforms any other insulation out there. 

So, I convinced my wife to let me spray foam the basement walls in the workshop.  The plan is to spray foam the rest of the basement at a later point. 

I contacted 4-6 spray foam contractors and only received responses from 2.  I had them both give me quotes for 2" of closed cell spray foam.  They varied by about 33%.  Got references from each and since they both received glowing recommendations, I went with the less expensive one. 

Over the last couple of years I have read many many articles, blog posts and such on the best methods to finish basements.  Of course all of them agree that spray foam is the best way to insulate.  But I did see an article on HomeConstructionImprovement on insulating a basement.  He uses 2" XPS Foam sheets glued and taped onto the concrete walls as well as how to insulate the rim joist.  My rim joist currently has unfaced fiberglass batts stuffed into the cavity.  Not ideal and not sealed well as well as potential for mold and other things. 

I decided that I would price out doing the XPS foam just to see if the spray foam was prohibitively more expensive and if my dreams would be crushed by my practical side.

To do the workshop with XPS Foam, I would need 23 sheets at a cost of about $30/sheet with tape.  Just for the walls (not including rim joist), it would be $690.  The lower spray foam quote was $940 including rim joist.  And I don't need to install it, it is a perfect seal and it is SPRAY FOAM!!

In preparation for the spray foam, I removed the door leading to the bulk head, and cleaned out the area of all tools and such so the installers wouldn't have anything in the way.  The spray foam installers came by yesterday around 2PM and were pulling out of the driveway by 5:15PM.  There is no way I could have done the XPS foam in 3.25 hours...I was thinking more like 2 days.

I placed my order with Lowe's for all materials that should be delivered tomorrow afternoon.  I will start construction this Saturday.  Not sure how far I will get, but will definitely be taking pics.

Oh yeah...and I love Google Sketchup.  I have used it to design my basement.  It made it easy to calculate exactly how many 2x4's I would need, how I would lay things out, how much electrical, number of outlets, location of things.  It really is a great tool.  Kind of difficult to use because you have to draw each item at least once.

Before pics of the basement








After spray foam!!








Because the stairs are pre-cast, I wanted them to seal the section where the concrete meets the steps.  

I am VERY HAPPY with the way it turned out!  I am excited to finally have a nice workshop.

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

The One Project Closer Before & After series supporting Habitat for Humanity is in full gear. If you've completed a DIY project recently, send it in for a chance to win a $50 gift card! Through the entire summer, they're picking weekly winners and publishing their before and after story on OPC. At the end of summer, voting begins and the grand prize winner takes home an additional $150 gift card! To join in, submit pictures and a story to BeforeAndAfter@OneProjectCloser.com.
This is the fourth year One Project Closer has run this series to help raise support and awareness for Habitat. In addition to winning a gift card, OPC makes a $100 donation to Habitat in your honor. All together, they'll have donated more than a $1000 by the end of summer! Not too shabby. Plus, keep your eye out for the Habitat fun fact on each Before and After post to learn what Habitat is doing all over the world.

If you like home improvement projects, let OPC help you get started. $200 worth of gift cards can go a long way, especially when you combine that with a Lowe's coupon or Home Depot coupon. You've put in a lot of work, and it's time to claim some of the credit. Let OPC feature your awesome before and after AND help out a worthy cause.

For all the official details, head over to One Project Closer and read the Before & After 2011 announcement.

Monday, August 1, 2011

New House...New Project

So...my wife and I were lucky enough to sell our small 1950s cape.  We also bought a 1992 colonial house.  We closed on the old house and the new the same day (May 27th).  This house that is new to us has some major outdated interior things.  Wallpaper in every room, tan/almond everywhere (carpets, outlets, paint, baseboards, etc...).

We needed to buy a new house for our ever expanding family.  We welcomed my 3rd child on April 1st.  It took over a year to sell our house in this market, but we were lucky enough to get it sold!! 

Over time we will update the interior of the whole house.  It will not be as an extreme update as the last house as I don't foresee taking out any walls or removing drywall.

The first room we have updated is our formal Dining Room.  About 3 weeks ago, I saw 170 sq. ft of 3/4" x 4" Maple Hardwood on Craiglist.  I picked it up for about $3/sq. ft which is a great deal.  They sell the same stuff at Lumber Liquidators for about $5/ sq. ft.  The room is about 160 sq. ft., so I knew it would be tight and not much room for error, but I could always buy another box if needed as it is still available.

The floor registers were brass (like the lighting fixture).  I like flush-mount registers for a couple of reasons:
  1. They are flush and therefore do not stick out so they won't be hit by furniture or other things.  
  2. My son likes to take the floor registers up and throw toys and other things down the vents. I have screwed down the other registers in the house because of this.
  3. It seems more professional and that there was actually care that went into the floor installation.
Before  Pictures:
Lovely window treatments, wallpaper border and light.

Beautiful carpet and a genius idea to have in your formal dining room.

Here is the newest addition "supervising".


These were our color choices.  We bought 5 samples and went from there. 

During Pictures:
After removing wallpaper, I removed the carpet and then the baseboard. If you cut the carpet and pad into strips, the city will take it with our weekly trash pickup service.  This is convenient and a great service!!

While removing the wallpaper, some of the paint came with it which made the surface uneven.  I had to mud these areas out and sand them.


There is daddy's little helper always under foot.  I screwed down the sub floor so that we would never develop any squeaks.  Nothing worse than a squeaky floor.

After painting:

I have always wanted my formal dining room to look upscale, so going into this project, I knew that I wanted a chair rail and wainscoting using the wall frames.  The nice thing is that Lowe's sells pre-made wall frames.  This saves me the time of creating a jig, cutting the frames, gluing them together and what not.  Of course, it made it difficult to modify any of them like the one around the stairs.

Flushmount vent:
The flushmount has a groove around the entire frame that the vent sits in.  I like this one better than the big box ones because it still has the louver to open and close the vent as needed.  Purchased from Buyfloorregisters.com.

Post Flooring Installation:



I ran into some difficulty when I installed the flush mount registers.  The register was about 1" from the edge of the closest floor board.  Since I wanted to use the groove of the register to hold it down, I decided to build a frame around it.  I mitered the corners of my frame.  I am very happy with the results.

I purchased the Skil Flooring Saw when we bought this house because I knew I would be replacing a lot of carpet in the future.  This saw is amazing.  The dust bag/collection is the worst part.  It kicked up a lot of dust into the room, but the convenience of having the saw in the same room was priceless and worth the extra mess.  It has the nice large no mar feet and is very light and easy to move around.  I would recommend it as it is worth the money if you plan on doing a lot of flooring.

If you are doing 1 or 2 rooms, a standard mitre saw will be more useful as it will be usable for floor molding and chair rails and crown molding.

Frames/Chair Rail:




While browsing Sears one day, I saw an ingenious update to the age old miter saw.  It is the Craftsman Miter Mate.  I bought it and used it for this room.  It was a time saver.  It has a neat little angle finder.  You use that angle finder and put it in the corner.  Then you bring the 2 fences on the saw to the 2 angles.  It is great because you rarely if ever find a perfectly square corner.

You can see in the last picture the angle I was talking about that doesn't work with the pre-made picture frames.  I used the blue tape to mark exactly what it would look like and used that as a template to cut up 2 different frames to make the angled one.

 My son likes to stick things in outlets, so we are slowly replacing the outlets in every room with Tamper Resistant outlets.  You can see in the picture that these are different (better) than the plastic nubs or other methods that provide resistance to tampering.  There is a plastic piece inside of the hot and neutral prongs that requires an equal amount of pressure on both before it moves out of the way and allows you to plug something in.

These were also added to the NEC in 2008.

Final pictures with furniture and window treatments:


 These treatments were purchased at Target.  They only had 1 set, which is why the other window is treatment-less. We will have the second set added after we find a Target with them.

We don't have a wide angle lens on the camera, so it is difficult to capture the dramatic difference in the room.  My wife and I are very happy with the outcome and are excited to see what the house will look like after each update.

Breakdown of cost:
  • $500 - Hardwood Floors
  • $120 - Paint, samples, brushes, rollers (Ceiling Paint, Brown Wall Paint, White Wall Paint)
  • $50 - Miscellaneous (Caulking, nails, etc...)
  • $260 - Wall Frames
  • $120 - Chair Rail and Floor Molding
  • $90 - Light Fixture
  • $50 - Flush Mount Floor Registers
  • $40 - T-Mold Transitional Molding between kitchen/entry and hardwood flooring.
  • $100 - Tamper Resistant Outlets, Decora Light Switches, Faceplates.
  • $150 - Window Treatments (including Rods and Curtains)
Total cost for Remodel of Dining Room -  $1480

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Deck Refinishing

Since we put our house on the market, the projects have taken a back seat. We don't want to put anymore money into the house if we are moving.

When I put the deck on last year, I applied Olympic Maximum Clear Waterproofing Sealant (http://www.olympic.com/Stain/Find_Products/clear_maximum.aspx). I used a roller as recommended, but it just bubbled up. I used a brush on the stairs and it seemed to work better as I was able to back brush it and remove the excess. Well, within a couple of months of heavy rain, the finish decided to stop working and the boards were starting to turn gray.

I read a review of the OneTime and decided that it couldn't be worse than what I have on there now. I also liked the fact that it was 100% solids. I purchased a gallon of the http://www.onetimewood.com last year in anticipation of refinishing the deck. I never got around to it, so it has been sitting.

Review from HomeConstructionImprovement blog. And 10 months later.

I took the last 2 weekends refinishing the deck. I did half the deck at a time so we wouldn't have to remove the grill or other items from the deck (just move them to the side).

Here is a before picture of how the deck looked and why it needed to be redone.



I started out by pressure washing the deck. This took about 4 hours per half (8 hours total). Here is the after pressure washing picture. The grain has lifted and the surface is very uneven. The deck was really bad which is why I had to go so deep with the pressure washing.


After that, I used the belt sander to sand the surface. This took another 4 hours per section (8 hours total). This is the post sanding picture. Notice how much smoother it is.




Here are some pictures of me sanding. The children are wondering why they can't come on the deck too.




After sanding, I applied the OneTime wood protector. I couldn't find anything on the website, on the container or any literature mentioning that you would have to apply 2 coats, so I only applied one. Took about 6 hours to apply the protector with a brush. I wasn't going to chance it with a roller this time.

Here are the after pictures. You can even see a comparison shot. The OneTime protector dries much lighter in color (looks red in the picture). I would have preferred to use the Red Cedar myself, but the wife decided she wanted the natural finish and of course she won :)







If the house doesn't sell, I will be able to see how well this stuff lasts. For now, I am just happy that the job is done!